Family: Fabaceae
Genus and Species: Phaseolus vulgaris
Climate
Bush beans are very easy to grow, as they will tolerate a variety of climates as long as there is good sunlight available. An air temperature of 70°F-80°F and a soil temperature of at least 60°F is ideal for beans.
Soil
Bean plants will grow in almost any soil with a pH above 6.0. Loose sandy loam soils warm rapidly and are ideal for beans. Soggy soil will cause the bean seeds to rot. Bush beans will do best in well-drained soils rich in organic matter. Beans prefer lighter soils. If you have heavy soil, amend it well with compost prior to planting. Break up large clods of soil and rake the area smooth prior to planting your bean seeds.
Spacing
Plant bush beans 1" to 1-1/2" deep at 2" apart within rows. Space rows at 24"-36".
Direct Seeding
For a continuous harvest of bush beans throughout the growing season, plant beans every two weeks (called staggering) until about 45 days before the first expected frost date. Gently press soil cover so that the beans have good contact with it.
Seeding For Transplants
Bush beans are not normally transplanted. If you want to give it a go, sow one bean seed per 1-1/2" cell or soil block at 1" deep. If using a flat, sow at 1" deep, 2" apart, in row with 2"-3" between rows. Gently press the potting mix so that the beans have good contact with it. Start seeds 2-3 weeks before the last spring frost.
Germination
These seeds germinate best in soils around 75°F-80°F.
Germination will take 7 days.
Transplanting Into the Garden
Transplant bean plants at 3-4 weeks.
Watering
Maintain a consistent moisture rate during germination. Deep watering once a week is recommended as long as the soil drains well. Saturated soil increases the risk of seed rot. Once plants have sprouted less frequent irrigation is required until just before bean plants are about to blossom. Just prior to and during the blossom stage, ensure the bean plants have consistent moisture and deep water once a week if there is no rainfall. Be sure to water the plants at their base and be careful not to knock off blossoms while watering.
Harvesting
Fresh Beans: Fresh (snap) beans are normally ready for harvest about 8-10 days after flowering. Pick beans when they are pencil thin, the fruit is bright green, the pod is fleshy and seeds are small and green. The bean pods should snap easily when bent - thus the name snap beans. Pinch or cut the beans off rather than pulling them as pulling the beans may pull up the plant.
Harvest the beans frequently - if not daily - to keep the plants producing. The bean plants will stop producing if bean pods are allowed to reach maturity.
Over-mature beans loose their bright green color and become pithy and tough.
Do not pick beans while the plants are wet if it can be avoided. Wet bean plants are ripe for the transmission of disease. Harvest and remove from the field any overly mature pods that may have been missed earlier.
Dry Beans: Leave the plants alone and let the bean pods dry right on the plant until late fall. If the climate has high humidity or your crop is in danger of being blanketed by snow, pull the plants and hang them upside down in a shed or other protected location with good air circulation.
Post-Harvest Handling
Fresh Beans: Snap beans are a moderately sensitive vegetable with a high-respiration rate. This means the beans must be cooled quickly after harvest to maintain their flavor, texture, color, and freshness. Pre-cooling to remove field heat prior to shipment is commonly practiced via forced air-cooling. Do not use ice or water, as the beans will become damaged. Significant post-harvest decay will occur if the beans remain wet after harvest.
Dry beans: Once the bean pods have completely dried, gather the bean plants on a large sheet or tarp and thresh to separate the beans from their pods. Winnow to separate the beans from the chaff and place in storage containers.
Storage
Fresh Beans: Snap beans are best stored at 41°F -46°F with 95% to 100% relative humidity. Snap beans can be stored for up to 8-12 days in these conditions.
Dry beans: Store dry beans in containers in a cool, dry, dark place. Dry beans stored in these conditions will be at their best for up to 4 years.
Diseases
Anthracnose, Bacterial Blight, Mosaic, Rust, Downy Mildew
Pests
Mexican Bean Beetles, Aphids, Cabbage Loopers, Corn Earworms, European Corn Borers, Japanese Beetles
Comments
Beans perforom much better with the use of inoculants. Inoculants are typically dry powders that contain symbiotic rhizobial bacteria. When the seeds of legumes like bush beans are treated with inoculant, the plants will form nitrogen nodules on their root systems as well as produce increased yields. The beans plants don't need the nitrogen fixed by the inoculant. Rather, when the bean plants are tilled under, the nitrogen in the nodules becomes available in the soil for the next crop of plants - preferably one that likes nitrogen like tomatoes.
To apply the inoculant, dust the bean seeds with a light amount of inoculant as you plant. Inoculant is an especially good idea if you haven't planted beans in the chosen area before.
Till bean plants under in the fall after they're done producing unless disease has struck. In the spring, plant a nitrogen feeder to take advantage of the nitrogen provided by the bean plants.
Beans are very prolific. A 100' row of bush beans can produce about 50 quarts of beans.
Beans are self-pollinating and therefore different cultivars can be grown side by side with little danger of cross-pollination.
Never weed or work among the beans while they are wet to prevent the spread of disease.
References
Ashworth, Suzanne (1991), Seed to Seed, Decorah, Iowa: Seed Saver Publications.
Bradley, F. M. and Ellis, B. W.(Ed.). (1992), Rodale's All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening: The Indispensable Resource for Every Gardener, Emmaus, Pennsylvania: Rodale Press.