It feels odd to be writing about preparing for winter since it’s now August, and sweat obscures my vision, and my fingers are sticking to the keyboard as I work. But those sensations are merely reminders of the conditions that our tools and equipment are exposed to in our service. Moisture, salt and other chemicals – both natural and synthetic – dirt, and physical exertion are as much experienced by the equipment we rely on as by ourselves.
Fall brings the opportunity to provide our equipment with both necessary repairs and maintenance and the precautionary care to maintain its longevity and productivity on our behalf. Now that your equipment is no longer needed on a daily basis, it can be thoroughly cleaned, examined, repaired, oiled, and stored for the season.
If you follow some basic procedures before storing your equipment for the winter, you will (a) extend the life expectancy of each piece, (b) provide yourself with a fast-start in the spring, and (c) have tools that are comfortable to work with, and machinery that functions at peak performance when it’s needed.
Large Equipment
The alloys that make up most tools today are significantly stronger and more durable than in the past. However, all metal is subject to chemical reaction from minerals naturally found in the air, water and soil, as well as from substances that may be applied during normal farming procedures. Metal is also subject to wear from friction and use, and the debilitating effects of sun and rain. When your machinery and equipment is no longer needed for an extended period of time, some simple measures can ensure the integrity of its materials and extend its productive life.
Clean the item thoroughly by hosing off dirt and vegetation. A concrete pad with 4-inch high “walls” on three sides, and filled with a bed of sand, makes an excellent area to do this. The sandy surface traps and holds most of the chemicals and other substances being washed from the equipment that could otherwise wash into ditches or rainwater collection/dispersal systems and end up adversely affecting the environment. The sand should be periodically raked, collected and disposed of appropriately (in our region, this means in a designated landfill). Allow the equipment to dry thoroughly following the wash-down.
Be sure to remember to thoroughly clean out the engine compartment of motorized equipment to remove oil, dirt and chemicals that can corrode and damage the engine. A high-pressure hosing can be valuable, as simply vacuuming or manually sweeping out debris is inadequate to completely clean the chamber.
Drain and change the oil and otherwise lubricate motorized equipment. If your equipment will be stored for a period of several months, be sure to use an appropriate weight of oil. Don’t forget to start and allow the equipment to run occasionally during its storage period to keep gears and other components appropriately lubricated. Run it long enough to allow the engine to get up to a good operating temperature. Follow manufacturers’ instructions regarding the right weight of lubricant for idle equipment.
If your maintenance program includes periodic oil analysis, now would be a good time to take oil samples. Oil analyses are used to monitor wear and oil contamination. Oil samples should represent all the oil in the machine. Thus, samples should be taken of heated oil from each reservoir, and thoroughly mixed (for example, when draining oil for an oil change). Samples are usually taken of engine, transmission or hydraulic oil. The cost of analysis depends on the laboratory used and the extent of information requested. Charges of $10 to $30 per analysis are common. Some fuel and oil suppliers and some machinery dealers perform oil analyses; other providers include independent labs, which are often found listed in the classified section of the telephone directory. Regular oil analyses eliminate the speculation as to whether a piece of equipment needs more or could use less servicing to operate at peak functionality.
Topping off fluids and fuel tanks can help prevent condensation, a major factor in equipment failure. Be sure that coolant systems are full.
Check the electrical system for frayed or broken wires, and check gauges, lights and switches to be sure they’re in operating condition. Replace burnt-out bulbs if necessary.
Remove batteries and check and clean contact points as needed. If temperatures in your region are extremely low during the winter, you may wish to remove the batteries to an area where they will be protected from cold weather drainage.
Examine each piece of equipment carefully for signs of rust, loosened or missing bolts or screws, and evidence of nicks, scratches, gouges, dents or other damage that could result in loss of integrity to the finish and provide an ideal place for rust to develop.
Know which components of each piece of equipment (e.g., knotters on balers; cutter knives and cylinder pans on harvesters; and bearings and shafts on combines) are most vulnerable to wear and deterioration, and service them accordingly.
Use manufacturers’ suggested maintenance protocol, as outlined in Owners/Operators Manuals that are provided with new machinery, if you have them. If not, many manufacturers maintain internet sites that can help you determine what processes may be recommended, and every manufacturer I have ever dealt with is happy to give you the information you need upon request.
Apply a light-weight oil (I make copious use of WD-40) to clean away grime and rust, followed by a light sanding if necessary to completely remove the rust. Remember to coat blades with grease before sending the equipment to storage.
Repaint any piece that displays more than minimal wear.
Remove and replace any hardware (bolts, screws, etc.) that has become rusted, bent or otherwise unserviceable.
If equipment has sustained significant damage (for example, plow coulters or disk blades that have become bent or pushed out-of-sync), remove and repair or replace the broken component.
Check tire pressure and inflate tires to the recommended pressure for storage.
Finally, grease contact points such as clutch parts or gears, and place your equipment in its winter storage location.
Remember that tires, hoses and belts deteriorate quickly if unprotected. Indoor storage (even that of a three-sided equipment shed) can add years of life and increase the potential resale value of your equipment, so if possible, keep at least your most expensive equipment under shelter. Other equipment can be covered or plastic wrapped to protect it from the elements.
Important: Fall maintenance programs are no different from a regular maintenance service program. As such, it’s very important to keep records of the work performed on each piece of equipment and to designate the equipment hour intervals at which the service was performed. Not only will this provide you with backup records in the event you ever need to make a claim for a manufacturing defect, but having complete records will increase the value of the item should you ever decide to sell it.
Hand Tools
I think it’s more difficult to maintain hand tools than large machinery because they’re just so darned handy! We keep using them long after our “big” equipment has been put down for the season and, come spring, I always seem to find at least one item lying forlorn and rusted beneath a snow-covered lawn chair (I guess that serves me right for taking a break instead of finishing that last job)! For this reason, I’ve devised a way of storing hand tools (including many of my barn and livestock tools) that is useful year round.
I found an old, leaky stock tank that was no longer serviceable for its original purpose. I hauled it to the entry area in my barn, lined it with a sturdy plastic pond liner, and filled it about three-quarters full of contractors’ sand. Two or three times a year, whenever I have used motor oil following an oil change on my car or any of my farm machinery, I pour the oil into the sand. The deep, sandy bed makes a perfect place to store metal blades, pitchfork tines, and even rake heads, and the oil helps to keep the metal rust free. Do, however, wipe down blades and tines before using them – motor oil isn’t environmentally friendly.
Beside the tank I keep several cans of WD-40, a bin of clean rags and a paper towel dispenser. Each time I finish using a hand tool, I rinse it off, spray on a bit of WD-40 and slip the blade into the sand. The sand holds it upright for easy access the next time I need it, and the oil helps to prevent rust or chemical deterioration. The sand even provides a frictional benefit that helps to keep the blade or tine sharp; the abrasive action serving to sharpen the tool each time it pierces or is removed from the sand bed.
The handles of hand tools take a great deal of abuse during the season, and quickly become splintered, cracked and uncomfortable to hold and wield. Each fall, sand out any splinters, nicks and gouges, fill the cracks, and wipe the piece down with wood oil or use a wood sealant to preserve and protect the handle from moisture. Because the “action end” of my tools are stored below the surface of the sand, and because I’m very poor at replacing things in the same location from which they came, it can be difficult to determine which handle to grab when I need to find something. One way of distinguishing among the various pieces is to paint each handle a different color. I always know that if I want my favorite hay fork, I need the yellow-handled piece, and that my heavy-duty pitchfork is the blue one. And, (while I know it sounds backward, it works) I put the short-handled pieces (trowels, bulb planters, hand weeders, etc.) in the back half of the tank, and the long-handled pieces (rakes, hoes, forks) in front. This gives me the leverage I need to pull out the larger pieces, whereas the shorter pieces are easy to lift. It’s very easy to reach between the handles of the front pieces to grab the ones behind. I also find I spill less sand this way.
Remember, however, that if you implement the “stock tank storage system,” you will have to occasionally (depending on how many oil changes you do during a year) replace the sand with clean material. The old, used sand should be disposed of according to the environmental hazard regulations of your region.
If you take basic precautions to leave your equipment in good condition over the winter, you will find it easy and efficient to get a fast start in the spring, when you’re eager to try out new gardening plans, experiment with new crops, and get out into that heady spring sunshine.